At The Cottage in San Antonio, fish and chips, sandwich-style – San Antonio Express-News

Owners Gina and Phil Bentley, who also opened Waxy O’Connors on the River Walk, made sure of that by building a pub-caliber bar from scratch in the main room, creating the kind of wood-cased twilight space that lends itself to pints, fish and chips, and barstool hearsay in equal measure. Move beyond that urban man cave and you’re in a living-room lounge. Farther in the back, there’s a sun room and a patio, the atmospheric cousins to the big shaded patio out front.

It’s a choose-your-own Irish pub adventure, fueled by Guinness and Smithwick’s on tap, more than 15 Irish whiskeys and and a menu that covers pub classics, including a full Irish breakfast, curry, Guinness beef stew, cottage pie, bangers and mash, and, for purposes of this report, a handful of good sandwiches.

The Cottage Irish Pub opened in September on Broadway in San Antonio.

The Cottage Irish Pub opened in September on Broadway in San Antonio.

Mike Sutter/Staff

READ MORE: The 10 best restaurants on the San Antonio River Walk

Best sandwich: It’s hard to imagine fish and chips being more convenient than fried fish in a basket with fries. But then The Cottage’s fried cod sandwich ($12.95 with a side) said hold my beer. How about putting that fish between bread so your fingers don’t get so greasy? Done.

The fish itself was clean and crisp, with a willowy beer-batter shell, a fillet so generous it nearly doubled up on itself, and dared the lettuce and tomato to hang on. I ordered coleslaw on the side, but The Cottage makes thick, skin-on fries that could go head-to-head with any basket-and-paper chips in town.

Location: 3810 Broadway, 210-463-9111,  

Hours: 11 a.m.-midnight Sunday-Thursday; 11 a.m.-2 a.m. Friday-Saturday; kitchen open until 10 p.m. nightly

Other sandwiches: Until 3 p.m. every day, The Cottage serves a full Irish breakfast with eggs, black pudding, bacon, grilled tomato, mushrooms, baked beans and Irish sausage with soda bread. They also do an Irish breakfast sandwich ($13.95 with fries) with fewer bells and whistles. Fitted with a fried egg, rasher-style slab bacon and a fat sausage with a mild temperament, it doubled as a hangover remedy and a Tolkien-esque second breakfast, tempered by a well-poured pint of Guinness to chase the clouds away.

A corned beef Reuben ($13.95 with a side) and a steak sandwich ($14.95) hit their marks, even if both were an experience you could re-create at just about any decent bar and grill. But I especially liked the creamy horseradish sauce for the steak and a comforting bowl of potato-leek soup as a side option. | Twitter: @fedmanwalking | Instagram: @fedmanwalking

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